Friday, September 26, 2025

RonnieAdventure #0689 - Rome, Italy, Part II

Picture by Kolohe
The Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin in Rome, Italy, was built in 1123 and contains the famous Bocca della Verita (Mouth of Truth) sculpture. 

There is no record of when the Bocca della Verita was made, what the sculpture was used for, or how it arrived at the Basilica sometime in the 13th century. Directly across the street are some temple ruins, so it may have been used for something in the temple. The sculpture is made of marble and weight about 1,300 kg (2,866 lbs). 

It is believed that the sculpture depicts the face of the sea titan god Oceanus, who was a Titan son of Uranus (Sky) and Gaia (Earth) and the father of the river god Oceanids, as well as being the great river that encircled the entire world.

Legend has it that the hand will be bitten off of any liar who places their hand in its mouth; so no journey to Rome would be complete without visiting the Bocca della Verita to see if one's a liar. Fortunately, no one in our group lost a hand. In the 1953 movie Roman Holiday, staring Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn, Peck pretended to loose his hand  when he placed it in the Bocca della Verita. 

Before coming to Rome, we were familiar with the sculpture because there is a Bocca della Verita fortune teller machine located in the Musee Mecanique in San Francisco, California, which we have visited many times.

Décor in the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin is similar to other Basilicas that we visited while we were in Rome.

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe
In 1610, Pope Clement XI ordered construction of a monument in his own memory, so Fontana dei Tritoni (Fountain of the Tritons) was built in front of Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin. I don't fully understand the fountain's construction, but printed literature stated: "The whole travertine structure is placed on a circular step (delimited by 16 little columns joined by a grating), within which the design of the main basin represents an octagon with concave sides, or rather the eight-tips star that was the heraldic symbol of the family of the Pope, the Albanis. In the centre there is a group of rocks...with bushes on which two Tritons...kneel with entwined tails and raised arms, sustaining on their shoulders a big oyster shell serving as upper basin. Between the two Tritons there is the coat of arms of the pontiff."

Picture by Kolohe
Foro Boario (Forum Boarium) was a cattle and meat market adjacent to the River Tiber directly across the street from the Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin and is the original location of the docks of Rome. The Tempio di Ercole Vincitore (Temple of Hercules Victor) located in the Forum was built in 143 BC and is the earliest surviving mostly intact marble building in Rome, and the only surviving one made of Greek marble.  

Tempio di Portuno (Temple of Portunus) is adjacent to the Temple of Hercules Victor in the Foro Boario; and was dedicated to Portunus, the god of keys, doors, and livestock. During the Medieval period, the temple was converted to a Christian church and dedicated to Santa Maria Egyziaca (St Mary of Egypt). It is now an archaeological monument.  

This area of Rome contains numerous historic ruins, so we decided to walk up the hill to Piazza Venezia and take pictures along the way.

Picture by Kolohe
Area sacra di Sant'Omobono is just north of Basilica di Santa Maria in Cosmedin and was not discovered until 1937 when the land was being cleared for a new building. The site contains important archeological information, including altars and the sites of the Temple of Fortuna, and the Temple of Mater Matuta. 

Picture by Kolohe
Foro Olitorio (Forum Holitorium or Olitorium) ruins are located directly across the street to the north from Area sacra di Sant'Omobono and adjacent to the south side of the Casina building. Forum Olitorio was the "Market of the  Vegetable Sellers." 

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Teatro di Marcello (Theatre of Marcellus) was an open-air theatre just a short distance north of Foro Olitorio. Space for the theatre was cleared by Julius Caesar, but after Caesar was murdered in 44 BC, the site remained vacant until his grand-nephew Augustus completed the theatre in 12 BC.

Picture by Kolohe
In 1929, an attempt was made to return this side of Capitoline Hill to its role as ancient Rome's citadel by excavating the site. However, an extensive excavation was not recommended by the government's Inspector General of Art because it was determined that the ruins extend at least 8 metres (26.2 ft) below the current ground level and there was substantial wild vegetation that had taken root on the site. Additionally, some of the visible stone is cappellaccio, a crumbly type of tuff. All excavation work on the site stopped on October 28, 1930, and has never resumed. Some walls of the ancient Temple of Jupiter Opimus Maxius that was completed in 509 BC are still visible on the hillside.  

Picture by Kolohe
Piazza Venezia (Venezia Square) is the location of the Altare della Patria (hotel) and the Palazzo dei Conservatori (capitol building), so we had arranged to meet some friends there that were also visiting Rome at the same time. Of course, since we were walking up the hill to the back side of the Piazza, we had our choice of climbing up one of two flights of stairs to the Piazza del Campidoglio. Once we reached the Piazza, we found our friends and then rented a golf cart and driver to take us around Rome. Our driver did not stop at every attraction, so we had to take some pictures on the fly. 

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

When we drove by the Oro Bistrot Building, our guide pointed out the large tall doors and told us that in ancient Rome, the building owner would ride his chariot into the building through these doors for interior parking.   

Picture by Kolohe
Orti Farnesiana is a botanical garden and archeological site, but we did not stop because our driver told us that it would take several hours for a visit. He said to save this site for our next visit to Rome when we had more time. 

Picture by Kolohe
Acquedotto di Nerone is a remaining part of the Nero Aqueduct that was built by Nero between 54-68 AD

Picture by Kolohe
Circus Maximus is now just a vacant field, but there is a large parking lot and a drinking fountain in front of the Piazzale Ugo la Malfa (Monument to Giuseppe Mazzini) that tour buses stop at so tourist can fill their water bottles. We also filled our water bottles from the fountain. The monument is located on the southwest side of Circus Maximus. Giuseppe Mazzini was one of the leading activists for the unification of Italy (known as Risorgimento) that was completed in 1870.

Looking across Circus Maximus is Palatine Hill, which is the centermost of the Seven Hills of Rome. It is one of the most ancient parts of the City and is known as "the first nucleus of the Roman Empire." The ruins are so extensive that they extend all of the way north to the east side of Venezia Square.

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Giardino degli Aranci (Orange Garden) is located at the top of Aventine Hill and offers excellent view of the City. The garden's name comes from bitter orange trees that grow over an area that was once an ancient fortress built between 1285 and 1287 AD. Actually, the fortress was built over an old castle site and some of the castle walls still surround the property. A walkway that runs through the center of the site lines up and points to The Vatican. 

Picture by Kolohe



Picture by Kolohe
Nearby is the Buco della Serratura dell'Ordine di Malta, which is also know as the secret keyhole of the knights of Malta. With the correct camera equipment and lighting conditions, it is possible to take a picture of  St Peter's Basilica's dome through the keyhole. Unfortunately, the dome was too far away, lighting conditions were not correct, and we did not have the correct camera equipment to take a picture.

Picture by Kolohe
Our guide did not realize that by ourselves we had visited the Piazza Navona, Pantheon, and Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio de Loyola, so we stopped by these locations again. While we were in the the Piazza Navona, we did a selfie of the four people that had visited Egypt together in 2023.

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Basilica di Santa Maria Minerva is located at the southeast corner of the Pantheon. In the courtyard there is an art work by Ercole Ferrata featuring an elephant with an Egyptian obelisk on its back. Our guide book said that the significance of the art work and elephant is unknown. 

Picture by Kolohe
It was hot and muggy, so we asked our driver to take us to the best ice cream shop in Rome. He said that he knew just the place and drove us to Fatamorgana Gelato. We had to agree with him. It was some of the best Gelato that we had on the trip.

Picture by Kolohe


Friday, September 19, 2025

RonnieAdventure #0688 - Rome, Italy , Part I

Picture by Kolohe
In the middle ages, Castel Sant'Angelo (Mausoleum of Hadrian) was part of Vatican City; but Vatican City's boundaries have been realigned and it is now part of Rome, Italy. 

Emperor Hadrian started construction of the building in 134 AD as a mausoleum for himself and family, but it was later used as a fortress for popes. There is a corridor that links the building with the Vatican Palace, providing an escape route for popes during periods of political unrest. The building is now used for a museum. 

We crossed over the River Tiber on the Ponte Sant'Angelo, but did not tour Castel Sant'Angelo. As we walked along the river, there were a number of venders selling souvenirs at some of the best prices we encountered on the entire trip. We also walked past the Piazza dei Tribunali (Palace of Justice), which is the seat of the Supreme Court of Cassation.  

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe


Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
San Nicola dei Lorenesi (Church of Saint Nicholas of the Lorrainers) is a Roman Catholic church dedicated to Saint Nicholas and Apostle Saint Andrew. This is one of the national churches in Rome dedicated to France because it was given to the Lorrainers by Pope Gregory XV in 1622. Lorraine is a historical area of Eastern France. White and pink marbles are used extensively for decorations throughout the church's interior.  

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

Piazza Navona is a large elongated oval open space that is the historic site of the 1st century AD Stadium of Domitian, where Romans went to watch the agones (games). Hence, it was known as "Circus Agonailis." The day we visited the Piazza there were street performers and artists located throughout the open area. 

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe


The Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) is located near the center of the Piazza in front of the church of Sant'Agnese in Agone (Sant'Agnese in Piazza Navona) and symbolizes the four major river gods of the continents known during the 17th century - Nile (Africa), Ganges (Asia), Danube (Europe), and Rio do la Plata (the Americas). 

It is unknown where the obelisk came from, but it is believed that the hieroglyphic inscriptions on the obelisk were of Roman authorship. In the fourth century the obelisk was known to be located in the circus of emperor Maxentius, and then in 1650 it became part of Bernini's Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi in Piazza Navona.

Picture by Kolohe
Fontanna dei Moro is located at the south end of the piazza and Fontana dei Nettuno is located at the north end of the piazza. It is debated what the Fontana dei More central figure represents, but it is believed that it depict a Moor. The central figure in Fontana dei Nettuno represents Neptune. 


Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
The Pantheon was built between 118 and 126 EC on the foundations of Agrippa's Temple and is the best preserved ancient building in Rome. It is located in the historic Field of Mars area, which is the location where the large marble base for The Column of Antoninus Pius obelisk was found that we saw on display in The Vatican Museums. 

A square in front of the Pantheon is now called Piazza della Rotoda, which also contains a fountain and the 6 metre (20-feet) tall Obelisco Macuteo (Pantheon Obelisk). The obelisk was constructed in Egypt for Pharaoh Ramses II to be used in the Temple of Ra in Heliopolis, but was later brought to Piazza della Rotoda for a shrine built for the Egyptian god Isis. 

The Pantheon hemispherical dome is an engineering marvel because it is still the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world. It was made by pouring concrete mixed with tufa and pumice over a temporary wooden framework. To support the heavy dome, the Pantheon walls are 6 metres (19.7 feet) thick at the base. An oculus (hole) at the top of the dome is the only natural light opening. Surrounding the interior walls are a combination of chapels, alters, shrines, tombs, statues, paintings, and other works of art, including the Tomb of Victor Emanuel II, Tomb of Raphael Santi, Cappella del Crocifisso, (Chapel of the Crucifix), Tomb of King Humbbert I and Margherita Savoia, and Cappella San Giuseppe da Terrasanta (Chapel St Joseph of the Holy Land).

Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe


Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
As a young man, Ignatius of Loyola had very ambitious goals, was dedicated to a life as a warrior, interested in worldly matters, and attracted to women. However, when a severe leg injury left him crippled for life, he turned his attention to religion, which led him to the foundation of the Jesuit Order in 1551. He was canonized as a saint on March 12, 1622. 

Located on the ceiling of Chiesa di Sant'Ignazio di Loyola (The Church of St Ignatius of Loyola) is the famous masterpiece Glory of St Ignatius by Andrea Pozzo, which is one of the most spectacular Baroque frescoes in Rome. (The dark colored "dome" that can be seen at the top of the below-listed pictures near the Glory of St Ignatius is not real, it is just a painting that looks like a real dome.)

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
The Templum Divus Hadrianus (Temple of Hadrian or Hadrianeum) was completed in 145 AD and is a prominent landmark in Rome. It was a place of worship for Emperor Hadrian and a shrine dedicated to the goddess Roma. Still surviving from the original structure are one cella wall and eleven columns from the external colonnade. 


Picture by Kolohe
Fontana di Trevi (Trevi Fountain) that was completed in 1762 and is the largest Baroque fountain in Rome and one of the most famous fountains in the world. It is 49 metres (160.8 feet) wide and 26.3 metres (86.3 feet) tall. 

The best known tradition at the fountain is to turn away from the fountain and then throw a coin over one's shoulder to "favor a future return to the city." This tradition was made popular by the 1954 movie Three Coins in the Fountain and the Academy Award winning song by the same name. On the average, 3,000 euros are thrown into the fountain each day. The money is collected and donated to the Caritas Association, which uses the money for charity work. 

Picture by Kolohe


Picture by Kolohe
Ashley and Sophia had to stop for some shopping on the way to dinner.

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe

Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe
Picture by Kolohe